8 May 17
Basking in the glow of a wonderful day, I stayed up a bit late the night before to write and prep a bread pudding from our leftover breads. My head hit the pillow around midnight and shortly thereafter Eli started in on a late night opera. It’s hard to let him ‘cry it out’ in a small room with no carpet and an arched roof. Kid’s got pipes! We tried the bottle. We tried our bed. Part of me enjoys having him in there, something I’m reluctant to allow at home. But on vacation: sure. It’s not so entertaining when he refuses to sleep. Around 3AM I moved to the couch. Apparently Noah was up as well and putting Grandma through the paces. Serves me right for claiming a victory over jet lag! As night gave way to day I decided to walk.
I headed North and East to the 10th and 11th arrondissement. Paris so quiet at dawn that I hear nothing but my own footsteps and the sound of my camera strap shifting back and forth. I arrive at Du Pain et des Idees 30 minutes before open and marvel at the aroma wafting down the block. I peek in the window and dream. At 6:45 I’m the first one through the door and order 3 versions of their signature pastry, the Escargot bread, named as it is shaped like a snail’s shell, not the ingredients. Sitting on a worn bench out front, I devour my treasure.
I return home, bake my bread pudding and even have time for an hour nap before the family rises. While there is no rain forecast, it’s a brisk 50 degrees with a stiff breeze.
We visit the Tuliere Gardens and the boys run by the fountain. We found a playground, vintage carousel and trampoline park. We took 3 rides on the carousel, loving every minute of it.
After we walked [most of] the Champs D’Elysses down the parade route and stopping to shop along the way. It was fun to pop into the Louis Vuitton store and briefly considered renting a Ferrari. 110 Euro for 25 minutes isn’t that bad for an experience that would’ve made Noah’s day, but what fun is it to drive a sports car in a slow city?
We ate delicious lunch of McNuggets and Happy Meals [don’t judge] before hopping the metro home for deep midday naps. Eli is a true New York ‘straphanger’ and reaches out for the pole even in Jamie’s Bjorn.
Around five we set out foot to walk the rest of the Marais, visiting little shops along the way. We stop into the Place des Vosges, to let the boys run around. They find a sandbox and make a game of gently wrestling together. Noah throws sand. Mostly, they are having a blast! Maybe it’s the frequent treats, extra attention or the newness of everything, but they are thriving here. The Place is a beautiful park, bordered by fine real estate.
We dared a dinner out and found a great fit at the child friendly Brasserie Bofinger. Established in 1864, the interior is vintage wood panel and stained glass from another era. The boys behaved reasonably well and the evening was memorable as was the creme brûlée.
Hoping for a quieter evening and perhaps sunny skies for tomorrow. If not, then so be it.